Hydrogen Peroxide is often called a developer in the salon
hair color market.
Professional Salon Hydrogen peroxide is different then the
peroxide commonly used for medical purposes.
Hydrogen Peroxide is an acid and hair color is alkaline.
Mixing Peroxide and hair color together creates an Oxidative reaction that
opens the cuticle of the hair and bonds the color to the proteins found in the
cortex of the hair.
Hydrogen peroxide is used in different strengths when mixing
it with hair color or hair bleach. The higher the Volume density numbers the
greater the energy to color and lighten the hair.
10 Volume or 3% is used for deposit only color processes
20 Volume or 6% is used to lighten one shade* and is best to
use to color gray hair
30 Volume or 9% is used to lighten two shade levels*. Not
recommended for coloring gray hair
40 Volume or 12% is used for lighten more than 2 levels*.
*Check your hair color manufactures levels of lift according
to developer volume
Depending on the type of color and the purpose of the
Timings relate to different Volumes of Peroxide.
The energy (time) provided by the peroxide to develop the
hair color in the hair is equal to the Volume of the peroxide.
10 Volume will
activate hair color for 10 minutes. During this time the cuticle of the hair is
being opened.After 10 minutes the color
is depositing for 15 minutes in the cuticle or cortex depending on the size and
strength of the cuticle.
20 Volume activates
the hair color for 20 minutes and then the oxidative process gives way to the 15-minute
color deposit process.
30 Volume activates
hair color for 30 minutes. During this time the natural pigments in the cortex
are lightened. Allow the color to develop for another 15 minutes for a full 45
minutes of development time.
40 Volume activates
the hair color for 40 minutes. 40 Volume is the highest Volume that can be used
safely on the scalp.Hair Color mixed
with 40 Volume developers will remove natural pigments from the hair leaving
the hair brassy. The color must remain on the hair 15 minutes longer in order
to tone/color the hair. The total time for a color mixed with 40 Volume is 55
Clear Hydrogen Peroxide can loose it's effectiveness over
time. The 20 Volume that the salon purchases in a gallon jug may be 15 Volume
when the jug is half full.
15 Volume will not give you the gray coverage you desire and
may not give the brightness of color or desired longevity.
Hydrogen peroxide buffered with small amounts of Salicylic
or Phosphoric acid stay truer to volume throughout the life of the container. Often
other oils or conditioners are added to give the buffered developer a creamy
Modern hair color is chemically sophisticated; the color
product is designed to work with the manufactures companion developer. For best
results and for insurance purposes use the developer the color manufacture